June 20 Astoria to St. Helen’s, Oregon

I feel like I’m back in Scandinavia again.  Astoria is fast preparing for the Midsummer Festival and flying Danish, Swedish, Finnish, and Norwegian flags up and down Main Street.  We biked past Suomi Hall, the Finnish fraternal organization.  Then we passed towns with names like Svensen and Swedetown.  Scandinavia, of coure, is covered with forests.  So is Oregon.  That must be the connection.  Scandinavian loggers transported to the Pacific Northwest just like the farmers went to Minnesota and North Dakota.

I took a picture of a big cargo ship passing under the bridge in Astoria.   Fifty miles later, as we biked into the town of Ranier, we saw the same ship entering the port.  So at least we know that we’re as fast as a cargo steamer.

Today was the first day of point-to-point riding. We’re actually headed to the Atlantic now, though it’s going to take a while to get there.  We traveled 69 miles today through very green, rolling countryside.  Pine trees and birch trees are thick as match sticks in a box.  They’re also everywhere, including the huge logging trucks that come booming past.  We’re climbing up from the Pacific; we climbed 3,250 feet today.  Our highest elevation was around 700 feet above sea level so it’s not like we were gasping for air.  Still, 700 feet is a pretty good climb when you literally start at sea level.

Now we’re in St. Helens, a pretty little town which is supposed to have fantastic views. Unfortunately, we haven’t seen any of them as it’s been gray, cloudy and threatening to rain all day.  That’s nice for biking — we stay cool — but I hope it will clear up so maybe we can see a view like this one:

Daily distance: 69.3 miles (111.5 km)
Average speed: 14.3 mph (23 kph)
Total climb: 3,250 feet (990.6 meters)
Total distance:  100 miles (161 km)

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June 19 – Pacific Dip.

I reset the odometer to zero and thought, “let the fun begin”.

What we’re doing here doesn’t seem so extraordinary.  It’s a basic American road trip.  Instead of using mules or horses or oxen or covered wagons or trains or buses or station wagons, we’re using bicycles.  It’s  the most elemental and most frequently repeated American story.  You an American?  You want some adventure? Well, hit the road, Jack.  In fact, Jack Kerouac’s got nothing on us. We’re Beat every day.

Today, we did a quick 30 miles from Astoria to the Pacific and back to Astoria.  It felt good to get back on the bike — it’s been almost a week — and we cruised right along. Cool and gray on the way out and a steady drizzle on the way back.  The main problem we had was keeping our glasses clear; we needed windshield wipers.

Today we started in Astoria and finished in Astoria.  Tomorrow, we start the point-to-point riding – 69 miles to St. Helen’s, Oregon.  I hope the volcano doesn’t explode again.

Day’s mileage: 30.7 miles (49.4 km)
Average speed: 16.4 mph (26.4 kph)

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June 18. Ready to rock and roll.

After 1,444 miles of driving and 2 ½ books on tape, we arrived in Astoria, Oregon about an hour ahead of schedule.  We drove almost seven hours today and never saw the sun — just rain and wind and 57º temperatures.  I’m sure the weather will improve tomorrow (and the next day and the next day).  Since we didn’t pack up our bikes, we didn’t have to unpack and reassemble them.  That made it much easier to get registered, pass the safety check, sign a bunch of release forms and pick up our jerseys.  I haven’t met everybody yet but it looks like the riders range in age from about 20 to about 70.  Also found out that one of the rules of participation is that we’re not allowed to flip obscene gestures to motorists at any time for any reason.  I hope that doesn’t slow us down too much.

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June 17 – Wyoming, Idaho, Oregon

Drove into Riverton, Wyoming on the evening of the 16th with the winds blowing at about 60 miles per hour.  Steve asked a store clerk if this were normal.  The response: “Sure. It’s Wyoming.”  Got up early today and hit the road, following the Across America North route in reverse.  We mainly followed two-lane highways through spectacular Wyoming and then Idaho countryside.  Imagine the Alps sitting atop the Painted Desert. That’s Wyoming.  Incredibly varied terrain with white-capped mountains, buttes, mesas, rolling hills and deep red gashes in the earth.  Got some beautiful views of the Grand Tetons — though slightly covered with clouds.  Elliot and I climbed the Grand Teton back in 1996.  It was the first time I realized that Elliot — 13 at the time — was a natural at rock climbing, much better than dear old Dad.  From Jackson, Wyoming to Twin Falls, Idaho, we crossed two mountain passes. Both were fairly low — 6,500 feet and 8,500 feet — but they both included 10% grades.  On our bikes, we’ll go from Twin Falls to Jackson in a one day … one very big day.  In between the two passes, we stopped in Victor, Idaho to drink huckleberry milk shakes.  Very tasty and an excellent recommendation from our buddy, Timmy Davis.  Then onward across Idaho, picking up the Interstate east of Boise and cruising through to Baker City, Oregon.  Tomorrow, it’s on to Astoria.

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June 16… and we begin…with $25,000.

The bike riding doesn’t begin until Sunday, but my biking buddy, Steve Berthe, and I are leaving today to drive from Denver to Astoria, Oregon, the starting point for the trip. We’ll arrive in Astoria on Saturday, ready to dip our wheels into the Pacific on Sunday. Last night we had a very nice bon voyage party with 70 of our closest friends — all of whom are now good friends with our dachsund, Bella, as well.  The good news is that we’ve now raised $25,000 for the National MS Society.  That’s 68% of the goal and I haven’t even started riding yet.  I can’t wait to get going and I hope you’ll follow me along the way.

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June 10 – 9 days to go. Trail Ridge Tune-Up.

I was wondering if my legs were ready for big mountain passes, so I decided to test them out on Trail Ridge Road.  Trail Ridge connects Estes Park to Grand Lake — about 50 miles (80 km) — by cutting through Rocky Mountain National Park.  The road tops out at 12,183 feet (3,713 meters) and passes through some of the most spectacular scenery in America.  (When Katherine Lee Bates wrote America the Beautiful, she was looking at Colorado). This morning, Suellen and I, along with our friends Unn and Stig from Sweden, drove from Denver to Grand Lake.  While Suellen, Unn and Stig toured the town and lunched at the dreamy Grand Lake Lodge, I hopped on my bike and started pedaling from downtown Grand Lake (altitude: 8,366 feet or 2550 meters) to the summit, about 23 miles (37 kilometers) away.  The first 13 miles rise gradually and the road is beautifully maintained.  I cruised along at about 15 miles per hour (24 kph).  Then I entered a series of switchbacks and had to tackle 6, 7 and 8% grades for the next ten miles.  I settled into a good rhythm of 7 or 8 miles per hour — a little faster than the other day on Lookout Mountain.  I felt stronger than expected and wound up pedaling the entire distance without stopping. Though I felt good, I may not have looked so good — a vulture followed me for about three miles.  I guess I looked like a good lunch time snack.  If you’re going to Trail Ridge, be sure to check on the conditions first. The road is closed for the winter as the mountains may get as much as 35 feet (11 meters) of snow.  The Park Rangers try to open it by the end of May but this year they couldn’t clear all the snow away until June 6.  Even then, you’ll ride along a high wall of snow that may be 15 feet (5 meters) high.  It’s a beautiful ride and a great place to throw a snow ball in June.

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June 7 – 12 days to go. Lookout! It’s a mountain.

I decided to add some longer, steeper hills to my training rides so I headed to Lookout Mountain just west of Golden, Colorado.  It’s 18 miles (29 km) from my front door to the foot of the hill and then five miles (8.5 km) of 8, 9 and 10% grades and an altitude gain of about 2,500 feet (760 meters).  (You can barely see the road at the bottom of the photo on the left). You’re rewarded at the top by some lovely vistas and a visit to Buffalo Bill’s grave — which is not all that interesting, frankly.  I cruised along at about 18 miles per hour on the way to the hill and then dropped all the way to 7 mph on the way up.  A little faster than walking but not much.  On the way up, two riders passed me and — much to my surprise — I passed three other riders.  As I passed each rider, I considered shouting, “How does it feel to be passed by an old man with multiple sclerosis?” but I decided to bite my tongue just this once. On the way back down, I enjoyed the breeze but there are so many hairpin turns that I couldn’t really open it up.  I topped out at about 35 mph (56 kph).  Fun ride – I may just do it again tomorrow.

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June 6 – 13 days to go. Sweating like granny in front of a death panel.

Since the last post, Suellen and I took a week off to go to New York City to see our friends Jeff & Mary Kay and to meet some Swedish friends Eva, Anders and Karin and, of course, to see Elliot and Julia. We love New York, even when it’s hot and humid as it was when we visited.  It’s a great walking town.  I switched on my pedometer and found that we walked anywhere from eight to 12 miles a day.  We did touristy things like the Circle Line tour around Manhattan and a walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. Then we saw the Alexander McQueen show at the Met and it just stopped us in our tracks. Simply amazing.  We also visited the Cooper Hewitt to see the Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry collection.  A fun and well-put-together show but not even in the same league as Alexander McQueen.  I didn’t take a bike to the Big Apple but got plenty of exercise by hanging out at Clay’s gym and spa on 14th street.  As far as I’m concerned, it’s the most fun gym in New York.  I mainly rode the stationary bikes and ogled the clientele, which included some bold face names.  We also took our young architects, Elliot and Julia, on a tour to New Canaan, Connecticut to visit Philip Johnson’s Glass House.  It’s a brilliant tour and a drop-dead gorgeous location — highly recommended if you’re in the area.  Now we’re back in Denver and I’m riding my butt off.  I’m also back at the gym working with my trainer, Alison. She’s working me hard and I think I’m pretty close to being ready to go.  At least my legs and lungs are ready to go — I’m not sure about the rest of me.   I did my yoga this morning along with foam rollers to loosen up my fascia.  Let’s see … what else do I have to do?  Oh yeah, gain three more pounds so I’ll have some body fat in reserve for those long days in the saddle.  Whew…. a biker’s work is never done.

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May 19 – One month to go. Smile.

I used to teach research methods and statistics at the University of Denver.  The holy grail of research is to prove a cause and effect relationship: x causes y.  The only way to do that is with the experimental method — manipulating the independent variable.  But it’s often difficult to use the experimental method in the social sciences.  (Let’s see — we’ll send 100 randomly selected people to jail for 20 years to see what the effects are.  Try getting that past your ethics committee.)  So, in the social sciences, our research often shows correlation rather than causality.  If you think you’ve shown x causes y, you also have to ask the question: could y cause x?  In other words did we get it backwards?

I tried this with moods a few years ago.  I always thought that being in a good mood (independent variable x) caused me to smile (dependent variable y).  So, x causes y, right? I decided to try the opposite as well to see if I could improve my mood by smiling.  Lo and behold… I could.  So, my mood — to some extent, at least — is my choice.  Smiling helps me improve my mood when I’ve had  bad day and may even help my athletic performance.  It also drives my friends crazy.  (What’s he smiling about?)  So next time you’re feeling down, try smiling.  It may just turn your day around.

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May 18 – 32 days to go. Both sides now…

I’ve read that one of the things that made Leonardo da Vinci so creative is that he essentially taught himself to be ambidextrous. Everything he did with his dominant side, he tried to replicate on his non-dominant side.  That made him more dextrous (so to speak) but also generated new neurological connections in his brain.  That, in turn, may well have made him more creative. I’m not sure about my creativity but I’m trying to do as much with my left side (my non-dominant side) as with my right.  I’ve moved the mouse to the left side of the keyboard, I put keys in locks with my left hand, and I emphasize exercises and stretches that work my left side. My trainer, Alison, says that this will help “recruit new muscles” — that is, muscles I don’t use very often.  I can use all the new recruits I can get.  I have to believe that this will also help my MS by building new connections in my brain. So, as they say, I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous.

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